A Pause Between Weeks

Sunday began with an early walk down to Copacabana beach for a sit in the morning sun and a swim in the sea. The atmosphere was an odd mix. Early risers and swimmers like us shared the beach with revellers still lingering from the night before, some clearly still fuelled by hard liquor, others incapable of anything more ambitious than sleeping where they lay. It felt like two different Sundays overlapping briefly in the same space.

We also stumbled across one of the strangest — or perhaps cutest blocos of the trip, depending on your viewpoint. This one was essentially a dog walk set to carnival music, with dogs dressed in tutus and Minnie Mouse outfits trotting proudly alongside their owners. It was entirely unexpected and oddly joyful.

Mid-morning, on the walk back to the apartment, we passed a small farmers’ market filled with fruit, vegetables and cheese. We stopped at the final stall for a cheese pastry and a glass of green sugar cane juice — both surprisingly refreshing and exactly right after the swim.

After changing, we headed out again to the Hippie Fair, doing two slow laps of Praça General Osório. Paintings, bags and jewellery filled the square, and had we been at home, we would almost certainly have come away with a painting or two. From there we walked on towards Ipanema beach, which was packed with Sunday sun worshippers. Our aim was to reach the Forte de Copacabana, not realising you can’t walk the entire way along the seafront itself.

After cutting inland, we eventually reached the fort and paid a small fee to enter. Although it was already around 1pm, we had brunch in mind at Confeitaria Colombo. The hosts asked us to return in half an hour, as a queuing system was in place, which gave us the perfect opportunity to explore the fort properly.

Brunch was good, if a little heavy on the carbohydrates — plenty of bread rolls — but the food was enjoyable and the view across Copacabana beach was spectacular. We waited a while for our food to arrive, but with that view, it hardly mattered at all.

The afternoon was deliberately quiet, followed by an equally gentle evening watching TV, as the second impressive thunderstorm of the holiday rolled in — dramatic skies, heavy rain, and the perfect excuse to slow everything down.

Reflection

Sunday felt like a day of overlap, night meeting morning, celebration giving way to routine, energy slowly easing into rest. From early swims shared with the remnants of the previous night, to quiet markets, crowded beaches and finally thunderstorms rolling in, the day carried a sense of Rio catching its breath. There was no urgency to do more or see more; instead it felt right to observe, wander, and let the city pass by at its own pace. By evening, with rain on the windows and nowhere we needed to be, it became a natural pause — a moment to slow down, reset, and draw breath before the second week of the trip began.

Trams, Streets and Sunset

We started our second Monday by heading to the Atlantic Hotel to collect our Carnival tickets. There was a fairly long queue outside, but it moved quickly. It was clear the organisers were keen to make life difficult for scalpers — security checks were thorough, and they even took photos of me alongside my identification. Once that was done, the tickets were handed over without any issues.

From there, we headed back into Centro on the Metro, getting off at Carioca station. Finding the Bonde tram station was fairly straightforward, despite a brief moment of panic when Google insisted it was closed. Tickets bought, we waited around 30 minutes before boarding. The platform was full of people positioning themselves carefully for photos — enough to delay departure slightly — although a few locals still use the tram as part of their daily routine.

Once moving, the tram rattled along at a decent pace, climbing steadily uphill and offering glimpses into the surrounding neighbourhoods. Crossing the viaduct gave us a particularly good view of the cathedral below. At times it felt slightly uncomfortable seeing so many tourists photographing everyday residential areas, which reinforced our earlier decision not to do a favela tour.

At the top, everyone stayed seated while the tram’s seats flipped over, allowing it to head back down without turning around. Around half the passengers got off — some for lunch, others for a wander or simply more photos. We were starving, so we headed straight to Portella Bar. With live music playing and a lively atmosphere, it felt authentic — at least to us as visitors. Like many tourists before us, we ordered far too much food, but the plantain was excellent and it was a real treat to enjoy vegan Brazilian dishes.

After lunch, we rejoined the tram for the journey back down. Our next stop was the Catedral Metropolitana de São Sebastião, just around the corner from the station. The building is undeniably striking — and at the same time rather ugly. Inside it was dark, with light filtering down through stained glass, but neither of us warmed to it and we didn’t stay long.

We then walked towards the aqueduct area, where there was a heavy police presence yet it still felt like the sketchiest part of the city we’d visited. A navigational mishap sent us the wrong way and we ended up at the top of the Selarón Steps, not a route I’d recommend. The steps themselves were fine, though very much a tourist trap. We walked down them and made our way back towards the Metro.

Avoid the crowds at the top of the Selarón Steps

Right by the entrance we spotted the first Starbucks of the trip, and without hesitation went in. It turned out to be the best cappuccino we’d had all holiday.

After returning to the apartment and freshening up, we headed out again — this time to Pedra do Arpoador for sunset. Arriving early proved wise; we managed to find a safe seat before hundreds more people arrived, all hoping to catch a glimpse of the famous view. The crowds may have been larger because of the bad weather the night before, but whatever the reason, the sunset was spectacular. Threads of orange stretched across the sea directly towards us, and when the sun finally dipped below the horizon, spontaneous applause broke out. A brief scramble followed as everyone headed back.

On the walk home, we stopped for margaritas at our new favourite bar, Espaço Zagut, at the bottom of our street in Copacabana — a perfect, relaxed way to end the day.

Reflection

The day felt like constant motion — queues, trains, trams, walking, climbing, descending — always moving from one part of the city to another. At times it was tiring, and occasionally uncomfortable, especially when passing through areas that felt less familiar or welcoming. But those moments made the quieter ones stand out more: lunch with music drifting through an open bar, the simple relief of a good coffee, and finally sitting still at Arpoador as the sun slipped into the sea. It was a day that reminded me travel isn’t always smooth or perfectly curated, but when it ends with shared applause, warm light, and margaritas close to home, it feels exactly as it should.

Petrópolis and the Imperial Past

Tuesday was an organised coach excursion to Petrópolis, and it didn’t start particularly well. The coach failed to pick us up from our location at 8am, which was frustrating at the time. After some back-and-forth on WhatsApp, the organisers asked us to take a taxi to the Hilton instead. Thankfully, we managed to join the tour there around 9am and finally got underway.

The group itself was fairly large and made up mainly of Portuguese and Spanish speakers. Credit to the guide, though, she worked hard to explain everything in all three languages and regularly checked that we were nearby and able to hear her. She was very much a character and had the whole coach laughing, which helped smooth over the slightly chaotic start.

We stopped first at Casa do Alemão for a short comfort break before continuing on to Petrópolis, arriving in under two hours. Our first stop was brief, really just a photo opportunity at an impressive former casino built in a German architectural style.

From there we headed into town to visit Alberto Santos-Dumont's summer house, known as "A Encantada". Those less interested went straight to Katz, the well-known chocolate shop, for coffee and sweets. After a quick look around the house — it’s small but interesting — we followed them and bought a few chocolates ourselves.

Next was the Catedral São Pedro de Alcântara, which immediately appealed more to us than Rio’s modern cathedral. Built in a traditional style, it houses the tombs of the former imperial family. Although the tower itself was only completed around 50 years ago, the cathedral felt far more in keeping with its surroundings and history.

Lunch was at the Copacabana Grill, a “weigh your food” buffet, although as part of the tour we could eat as much as we liked. The food was good and varied, with an especially strong salad bar, and it proved to be an excellent choice for a large group.

Re-energised, we then walked together to the Imperial Palace, once home to Emperor Pedro II and his family before their removal by the military in the late 19th century. We began in the carriage museum next door, which displayed an interesting mix of vehicles — including a steam-powered carriage and even a Western-style stagecoach.

Inside the palace, we were given protective coverings for our shoes to preserve the original 19th-century floors — though it felt slightly as if we were polishing them as we went. The building itself was impressive, with high ceilings and skylights running through the corridors to draw in natural light. The standout feature, however, was the Brazilian Crown Jewels: two gold-and-diamond crowns and a long gold sceptre, dramatically displayed in a darkened room.

As we left the palace, we spotted marmosets playing together in the gardens — a small, joyful moment at the end of a very structured visit.

The group then split. While some opted for a brewery tour, we chose a gentler finish, spending time shopping and having coffee along Teresa Street, known locally for its clothing stores.

By mid-afternoon we were back on the coach. A magnificent sunset accompanied us on the way back and around two hours later we were home at the apartment — tired, but glad we’d made the trip.

Reflection

The day felt very different from our time in Rio — more structured, more scheduled, and shaped by the rhythm of a group rather than our own wandering. While the uncertain start was frustrating, it quickly faded once the tour settled into its flow. Petrópolis offered a calmer, cooler contrast to the city, with layers of history that felt tangible rather than abstract. The palace, the cathedral, and even the small moments — like marmosets playing in the gardens — gave the day warmth and personality. It wasn’t a day of discovery in the usual sense, but it was an enjoyable step back into Brazil’s past, and a reminder that sometimes letting someone else lead the way can still reveal something worth seeing.

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Exploring Beyond the Beaches

A Pause Between Weeks

Trams, Streets and Sunset

Petrópolis and the Imperial Past

Around the city

Rio at Full Volume