Today was about getting to know Kraków properly on foot, starting at our own pace before joining a guided tour of the Jewish Quarter later in the day.

We walked from the apartment to Kazimir Restaurant for breakfast. It was a straightforward buffet, very hotel-like, but comfortable and easy. An omelette and coffee set us up well for a long day of walking.

From there we headed down to the river, stopping first at the Dżok the Dog monument and then at the fire-breathing dragon, where a small crowd waited patiently for the next burst of flame. The morning was cold and sharp as we walked back around Wawel Castle, taking photos of the river and surrounding area before heading up towards the entrance.

We spent around an hour inside the cathedral, admiring the scale of the architecture and the richly ornate tombs. Climbing the 237 steps to the bell was a bit of a workout but worth it. After a brief look around the castle courtyard, we made our way into the town centre.

We had booked tickets for the underground museum beneath the main square, although finding the entrance took some effort. After circling the Cloth Hall, we eventually found the descent. The museum was well presented and informative, focusing on medieval life, and it reminded me of the Jorvik Viking Centre in York. Despite this, it didn’t quite hold our attention and we moved through it fairly quickly.

Back above ground, we passed St Mary’s Basilica and walked up Floriańska Street, towards the gate, taking in the shops and the steady flow of people. By then we needed a sit down, so we stopped for coffee at an unexpectedly grand McDonald’s, complete with underground vaulted ceilings.

As we stepped back outside, the light was beginning to soften. The setting sun cast a warm glow over the buildings as we walked along the outside of the city walls, eventually finding a smaller, quieter Christmas market tucked behind the cathedral.

4km chain of gardens with walkways, trees & lawns encircling the historic centre of Kraków.

After returning to the apartment to freshen up, we met our tour group and set off at a brisk pace towards the Jewish Quarter. The group quickly stretched out as some struggled to keep up. The tour was fascinating, and it was surprising to learn how few Jewish people now live in the area. Although it was dark, the atmosphere added to the experience, particularly at the Ghetto Heroes Monument and the symbolic chairs. The tour lasted around two hours and finished at Plac Nowy.

We ended the day with a well-earned sit down and a drink at Alchemia, a relaxed local bar and a fitting place to stop.

Reflection
A full but well-balanced day that helped everything fall into place. Walking the city connected the castle, the old town and the Jewish Quarter into a single story, while the evening tour added depth and context. By the time we finally sat down with a drink, Kraków felt less like somewhere we were visiting and more like a city we were beginning to understand.

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Krakow’s Old Town

Arrival into Krakow

Zakopane and the Tetra Mountains