It was an early start today for our trip to Zakopane — early enough that the coffee shop we tried hadn’t even switched on their machines yet, so we left empty-handed. From there we walked to the pick-up point and were slightly surprised to board a full-size coach rather than the minibus we’d been expecting.

The drive to our first stop was a long one, taking us through the countryside to Chochołów, a small village known for its 16th-century wooden houses. We parked near the church and had a brief walk around, taking a few photos, although fifteen minutes felt rushed and barely enough time to settle into the place.

We continued on towards a much-anticipated cheese and vodka tasting stop. As we approached the Tatra Mountains, the temperature dropped noticeably, with snow on the ground and frost clinging to the trees. This stop was very clearly designed for tourists, with small wooden huts lining the roadside and local cheese being cooked over open fires. The cheese, served warm with cranberry sauce, was excellent. The vodka less so. Faced with the prospect of a hefty fine for bringing the cheese back to the UK, we admired it, enjoyed the moment, and moved on.

We reached Zakopane at around 11am and headed straight for the funicular up Gubałówka Mountain. With few other passengers besides our group, boarding was easy and we were soon climbing quickly towards the top.

The views from the summit were spectacular — snow-dusted mountains stretching out under clear skies. We sat in the warm sunshine with a coffee and hot chocolate, taking our time and enjoying the contrast between the cold air and the heat of the sun. Beyond the viewpoint, however, much of the area felt disappointingly commercial, with fast food outlets, amusements and souvenir stalls dominating the space.

After descending, we walked along Krupówki Street. It began with more tourist stalls before gradually giving way to familiar multinational brands. We continued uphill to Bar Górski, a restaurant we’d researched in advance. It wasn’t much to look at, but the food — tomato soup, lentil dumplings and more cheese with cranberry — was tasty, filling and inexpensive.

The outside thermal pool at Chochołowskie Termy

There was just enough time for a relaxed walk back down to the coach before our final stop of the day at Chochołowskie Termy. This large thermal spa complex is often described as a water park, and we were warned it could be very busy. In reality it was noisy but manageable. The outdoor pool was the highlight — swimming in warm water while looking out at snow-covered mountains was genuinely memorable. Inside, there were numerous pools, saunas and jacuzzis, although these weren’t recommended for me due to previous heart issues. With no lazy river to tempt us, we opted for an early exit and went in search of coffee and cake instead.

Back in Kraków, we headed straight out for dinner at Hevre, which had been recommended during our Jewish Quarter tour. Set inside a former synagogue, with much of its character preserved, it was atmospheric and easily one of the food highlights of the trip. A calm, unhurried meal felt like exactly what we needed after such a long day.

Reflection
A day of strong contrasts. The mountain scenery and outdoor thermal pool were genuinely special, while Zakopane itself felt more commercial than we’d expected. It reinforced how much we appreciate quieter moments — sitting in sunshine with a view, or ending the day somewhere atmospheric and unpretentious. Ending the day back in Kraków, with a relaxed and memorable meal, reminded us why the city itself continues to be the real draw of the trip.

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Zakopane and the Tetra Mountains

Krakow’s Old Town

Auschwitz-Berkenau / Wieliczka Salt Mine