Climbing to Shimla

Early start in Delhi

Another early start, 6:30am in the hotel lobby, as we set out to catch the 8:00 train to Kalka. This was the first stage of the journey, before transferring to the narrow-gauge “Toy Train” that winds its way up towards Shimla, in the foothills of the Himalayas.

The drive to New Delhi station was short, and we watched the city begin to stir as we approached. The roads thickened, people gathered, and the sense of movement increased with every junction. With the usual warnings about pickpockets still echoing in our heads, we must have looked like a school trip as we funnelled together and crossed the walkway above the platforms. A group of schoolgirls, neatly herded by nuns, passed us going the other way, and for the first time it felt as though we were the ones being openly stared at.

New Delhi to Kalka Shatabdi Express Coach sign

The Shatabdi to Kalka

Our guide steered us efficiently through a tide of human traffic that felt every bit as dense as the road congestion we’d experienced the day before. Soon enough, we were on the correct platform and settling into our allocated seats, impressively spacious first class, which felt like a small luxury at that hour. The train departed precisely on time. Newspapers and tea appeared, followed by breakfast: cornflakes with hot, sweet milk, jam sandwiches, and a hot vegetable dish that only a few of us felt brave enough to try. Those nearby agreed that the cornflakes were unexpectedly good, a small but memorable win.

At Kalka, the transfer to the UNESCO-recognised toy train was smooth and, reassuringly, just as punctual. The change in comfort was immediate. As the name suggests, space was limited, and we were squeezed two to a bench, knees negotiating for territory. Five hours suddenly felt like a long time. A packed lunch was handed out, sandwiches, crisps and cake were welcome; the yoghurt rather less so.

Kalka train station

The famous toy train to Shimla

As the train eased into its rhythm, the group settled too, not without a few quiet grumbles when the more spacious first-class carriages behind us. Some people stood at open carriage doors, balancing carefully for a better view. Others clustered at windows, cameras and phones in constant use. A few opted to read or chat.

We stopped briefly at Barog, stepping out onto the platform for a short walk and a chance to stretch legs and take photographs. The station sign, the tunnel entrance nearby, and the sudden quiet between departures all felt distinctly of another era. Then the whistle blew and we were moving again.

Boarding at Barog

Higher into the hills

As we climbed higher, the scenery began to change. Forests closed in around the track, the train looping back on itself along stone-lined curves. Beyond the trees, terraced hillsides appeared, dotted with houses clinging to improbable slopes. The air felt cooler, cleaner. Conversation picked up, enthusiasm returning as the landscape grew more dramatic and cameras were briefly set aside to watch the view..

We arrived in Shimla on time and were quickly transferred by car to our hotel, the Oberoi Cecil. After the slow, winding climb of the toy train, the handover felt abrupt but welcome. By the time we arrived, the early start and the steady rhythm of the journey had done their work, and it felt as though a new chapter of the trip had begun.

Sometimes you get it wrong

This is the photograph I should have taken at Barog. Instead, I followed the crowd to the back of the train, chasing the view of the tunnel. Jayne turned the other way.

Ninety-nine per cent of the photographs on this site are mine. This is the exception.

And I’m very glad it is. Thank you, Jayne.